The Real Downton Abbey – A Day at Highclere Castle
In August of this year, I was lucky enough to finally visit the place that needs no introduction. I was finally able to visit the real Downton Abbey (also known as Highclere Castle). I spent a sunny summer’s day at the place where they filmed Downton Abbey and as a history fanatic and perhaps one of the biggest fans of the Downton Abbey series and films going – it was a joyous occasion. Read on to find out exactly what you can expect from your visit, some tips and tricks for your trip and even what it was like to meet Lady Carnarvon.
The Real Downton Abbey House
The house we know and love did not always look the same as it does today. One of the previous Earls commissioned Charles Barry to reconstruct the once Georgian House into the more gothic Victorian construction that is iconic the world over.
Upon approaching the house, I thought it seemed slightly smaller than it appears in the Downton Abbey series and films. However, it is by no means small or less appealing because of this.
What will you see on your tour of Highclere Castle?
You queue up and the house staff allow small groups in at a time which is a positive as it means the rooms are not overcrowded. After you enter, you take yourself on a self-guided tour around the house and take the rooms in a certain order.
Note: Photography inside the castle is not allowed so I do not have any photographs of the interior to share with you.
Rooms
A large proportion of the rooms you see on screen are available to tour. The rooms themselves again, appeared slightly smaller than they do on TV but were still stately and decadent. Despite the grandeur, the rooms were cosy and had an intimate feel.
It felt like putting on a pair of your favourite comfy slippers to walk around the rooms I am used to seeing while wrapped up on the sofa on a cold winter’s night.
There are stills from the Downton Abbey TV series and films in different rooms around the castle but the best touch was the information cards. These information cards highlighted some key aspects of the rooms though I would have appreciated even more in-depth versions being available for us history buffs.
The views from Highclere Castle are unmatched by any other stately home that I have ever visited. Each room had stunning prospects of the landscape that embraces the castle and these vistas trump all other stately homes and palaces in my eyes.
The Grounds of the Real Downton Abbey
The above nicely leads to my discussion of the Highclere grounds itself. The grounds were landscaped by the infamous Capability Brown. The rolling hills are adorned with an abundance of trees (of which there are multiple varieties).
There is also a walled garden to amble around where you can admire the delightful herbaceous border which has clearly been cultivated with care to be both a wildlife sanctuary and a pleasure for the eyes of the beholder.
There are a total of six follies to visit on your tour of the grounds… and if you know me then you know I just adore follies! Due to time constraints, I didn’t have time to visit them all which is a source of disappointment to me… but it is also an excuse to go back.
Lady Carnarvon’s tour of the Grounds
A highlight of the day for me was the opportunity to meet Lady Carnarvon. As we were walking around the garden post-scones with jam and clotted cream, we noticed a small sign saying that we could join Lady Carnarvon on a tour of the grounds at 1 pm. We felt this was too good an opportunity to give up and I am certainly glad that didn’t. At first, we started off with a small group, but as the tour progressed, we picked up more people on the way.
Tip: Watch out for the signs near the marquee which is where any tours being given by Lady Carnarvon will likely be advertised.
Lady Carnarvon was utterly charming as she led us around the grounds dispensing the estate’s horticultural and historical knowledge with ease. I was already aware that she and her husband take an active role in the upkeep and management of the castle. However, I hadn’t realised just how hands-on the pair are. It seems that they (along with their four gardeners) are responsible for maintaining and developing the estates’ vast gardens and grounds. I have never spoken with someone who knew quite as much about gardening as Lady Carnarvon – although she made it clear that you could ask her anything.
Highclere Castle’s USP
On another note, I found the tour from the lady of the house to be entirely refreshing. I have never been to any other stately home or castle where a member of the family offers tours (never mind the fact that it was no extra cost to any of the visitors). I believe it is representative of the Carnarvon’s dedication, passion and commitment to the estate and to protecting our heritage. All of this makes it a fantastic unique selling point that the castle has to offer.
The Egypt Exhibition at Highclere Castle
There is an astonishing amount of historical enrichment to be had. The 5th Earl of Carnarvon along with Howard Carter unearthed the long coveted tomb of Tutankhamun. Highclere works hard to educate its visors about this via their Egyptian exhibition.
The exhibition takes you along Herbert’s journey to discovering the tomb. There are many fascinating original objects to see along with exact replicas of other Egyptian artefacts.
All in all, I certainly came away knowing a lot more than I did before.
The real Downton Abbey Gift Shop
I found the gift shop to be one of the most reasonably priced gift shops going. You could get a variety of both branded and non-branded merchandise including (but not limited to) soap, honey from Highclere bees, candles, tote bags, aprons, t-shirts, jewellery, books and garden paraphernalia.
I purchased some Highclere fudge, a branded leather burgundy bookmark and a Highclere Castle shirt which correctly labels me as ‘Her Ladyship.’
The Tearooms at Highclere Castle
There are three tearooms on the site for you to choose from. We went to ‘The Buttery.’
Unfortunately, I was disappointed with the choices available here. There were only a few different options for a very light lunch including pre-packed sandwiches, wraps and salads. I ordered a quinoa salad and a cream tea. I was not a fan of the salad as it had a funny taste to it and I did not eat more than a few mouthfuls.
On the other hand, my scone was absolutely delicious and so it almost made up for it.
Whilst we wanted to get out and enjoy the glorious scenery, we still wanted to take some time to enjoy some food that was a little more substantial. Some hot food options and/or some more filling options would be a welcome addition in my opinion and is the only way my day at Highclere could have been improved.
Note:
Whilst picnics are not allowed on the castle grounds, you may consume them in/near your car. I think it is a big shame considering how beautiful the Highclere grounds are. I think that this is all the more reason to improve the options available at the tearooms/café.
Is the real Downton Abbey worth a visit after all?
Overall, whether you are a fan of the Downton Abbey TV series or not, Highclere Castle (aka the real Downton Abbey) is well worth a visit.
